In Italy there are artichokes and artichokes. And artichokes. Carciofo Romanesco, Carciofo Violetto di Foggia, Carciofo Brindisino, not to mention Violetto di Provenza, Castraure della Laguna and Precoce di Chioggia. And there’s the carciofo Spinoso di Sardegna, the best for the table. Although, as is the way in Italy, each artichoke has a specific function within the great theatre of Italian cooking.

There are infact differences between the species. While the the Carciofo Spinoso di Sardegna is more delicate and perfect for the table consumption, the Violetto di Foggia, with less spines is perfect for the industry. In this artichoke the choke – la barba – is smaller and the heart – cuore – more delicate, more distinctively flavoured.

Artichokes are amiable plants. They don’t need much. Just free draining soil and adequate water, both of which are in abundant supply in the area of the Golfo di Palmas, not far from Cagliari. Here the land undulates gently from the steeper hills cloaked in bushy silver grey olive trees and darker green macchia down to the shore. The artichokes grow easily in the richly red alluvial soil. There are between 100,000 and 200,000 of the handsome, distinctive plants per hectare, with their long, saw-toothed leaves the same silver-grey-green as the olive trees that mark the edge of the growing area. Stretching up from the clumps of leaves in random uniformity are the long stems at the top of which sit the distinctive globes – capolini - of the carciofi. The capolini are quite small, and shaped like pine cones.